Liquid soap
Recipe Instructions
Dissolve KOH in equal amount of water. Mix in glycerine (equal to water weight). Add to warm oils. Mix until paste stage? Cover with plastic wrap and sit overnight.
https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/soaping-101-liquid-soapmaking-video.46114/post-428988
https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/soaping-101-liquid-soapmaking-video.46114/post-450370
https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/soaping-101-liquid-soapmaking-video.46114/post-452639
https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/soaping-101-liquid-soapmaking-video.46114/post-452730
Edited to add that I now mix my KOH /glycerin differently than the above. I dissolve the KOH in an equal amount of room temp. distilled water and then add the normal/full complement of (room temp.) glycerin to the lye solution.
Here's a brief rundown of what I do: Once my KOH/glycerin solution is mixed in with my heated oils, I just stir the mixture with a whisk until I see tiny bubbles flying up from out of my pot and floating in the air around my head (which takes all of 10 minutes, normally). That's a sign that the mixture has saponified enough to become soap, but the mixture is still quite liquidy and harsh/zappy at this point, and so I just cover it and leave it alone (off heat) to finish doing its thing - i.e., to finish saponifying into firm, tongue-neutral taffy-like paste all by itself with no interference from me. Like I said, this can take anywhere from 1 hour to 6 hours depending on the formula, and sometimes if I'm lazy I'll just leave it overnight to do it's thing.
Once it has become firm, taffy-like paste and tests out tongue-neutral, it is ready for dilution.
To conduct zap test - just rub a little of your paste between 2 fingers under some running water to get some suds going, and then touch the tip of your tongue to the suds. If there's still unreacted lye in it, your tongue will feel it as a tingly or biting sensation- almost as if the soap decided to nip or bite you back for being so rude as to stick your tongue to it. lol It's not unlike the feeling you would get by putting a drop of hot sauce on the tip of your tongue, or stuck your tongue to the terminal of a 9-volt battery (the small ones, not the really large kind). A good way to know if you are interpreting the tongue test correctly is to get a bar of store-bought soap (which should be tongue-neutral) and use it as a control subject with which to compare.
I have been fragrancing about 1% by weight of the diluted LS. In other words, for 500 g of diluted LS => use 5 g of fragrance. For a very strong fragrance (mint, clove, etc.), I'd be cautious and start with 0.5%.
To make the soap paste easier to work with, the total amount of Water + Glycerin should be 3 to 4 times the KOH weight. You can use less than that -- some recipes call for only 2 times the KOH weight -- but a paste this dry can be hard to stir and dilute.
Also, do not despair if you do not see flying bubbles. I did not for quite a while. I did get paste, though, so I knew it started saponification. You really only have to get it to where the oils and lye water do not separate. It will do all the rest by itself.
I don't use a stick-blender with mine in the beginning stages, I just use a stainless whisk instead to stir things up. The only time I use my stick-blender is later on when I'm diluting the paste (when things aren't as incredibly hot anymore). Even then, though, a stick-blender is not an absolute necessity, but it does make dilution proceed much easier.
If you're going to measure oils directly into the soap pot, then how you pour becomes even more important. It is not a wise idea to pour the whole amount of an oil directly from a large container if you want precise control. Most people aren't that good.
1) First, I place my soaping pot on my scale, tare it out, and weigh the largest amount of my batch oil/fat into the pot. Then I remove the pot from the scale and set it aside.
2) Next, I get out a separate measuring container and place it on the scale, tare it out, and weigh out my next largest oil/fat into it. Then I scrape that out into my main pot using my 2 spatula routine explained above. When done, I place the now empty measuring container back on my scale, which, if all the oil is properly scraped out, should register as weighing zero on the scale.
3) Then I repeat #2 with all the remaining oils in my batch.
You'll have better results making a LS using a recipe with a high % of high oleic oils to get a thicker product and also a relatively high % of coconut or other "bubbly" fats to get decent lather. Many people also use some castor, again to boost bubbles and encourage transparency. All three of these fats will typically make a clear amber soap.
Another good recipe would be Susie's LS for laundry -- either 100% coconut oil OR a blend of 95% CO + 5% castor.
https://www.soapmakingforum.com/threads/i-hate-to-ask-but-im-confused.58377/post-575408
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Soap Properties
Highlighted gray ranges represent recommended ranges for each property.
100
80
60
40
20
0
INS: 141.6 (ideal)
iodine: 65.7 (ideal)
Calculated Values for Oils and Preferences
| Superfat % | 3% |
| Saturated | 147.50 Gram(s) |
| Mono-Unsaturated | 294 Gram(s) |
| Poly-Unsaturated | 53 Gram(s) |
| Saturated:Unsaturated Ratio | 70.17:29.83 |
| Lye concentration | 90% |
| Weight Unit | Gram(s) |
| Soap type | solid |
Fatty Acid Profile
| Oleic | 49.80% |
| Linoleic | 9.30% |
| Linolenic | 1.30% |
| Ricinoleic | 9% |
| Lauric | 12% |
| Myristic | 4.75% |
| Palmitic | 10.05% |
| Stearic | 2.70% |
Recommended Additive Amounts
Swipe on table to see all values
For Advanced Soapmakers
| Sodium Lactate (60%)
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| Recommended Essential/Fragrance Oil | 6.25 Gram(s) | ||||||
| Ascorbic Acid
| 5 Gram(s) | ||||||
| Extra Lye to Neutralize Ascorbic Acid for A.A. | KOH: 1.57 Gram(s) | ||||||
| Lactic Acid
| 3.75 Gram(s) | ||||||
| Extra Lye to Neutralize Lactic Acid for L.A. | KOH: 3.46 Gram(s) | ||||||
| Recommended Liquid Crothix
| 9.51 - 76.12 Gram(s) | ||||||
| Tetrasodium EDTA
| 4.76 Gram(s) | ||||||
| Sodium Citrate
| 6.50 - 19.50 Gram(s) | ||||||
| Potassium Citrate
| 8 - 24 Gram(s) | ||||||
| Rosemary Oleoresin (ROE)
| 0.20 - 0.25 Gram(s) | ||||||
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Citric Acid Powder (anhydrous) |
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Extra Lye to Neutralize Citric Acid Powder for C.A. |
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