Tallow Milk & Honey Soap (W/ Coconut & Olive Oils + Aloe Vera) ~86.7 oz size batch for two 42 oz molds
Recipe Instructions
Replace water with milk!
Freeze milk (and maybe aloe vera) in ice cube trays the day before or earlier.
Place molds with liners and 3 qt mixing bowl in freezer the night before or at least a few hours.
Melt tallow and coconut oil in a 3-5 qt sauce pot until fully melted and clear not cloudy- check temperature. Pour into 5 qt mixing bowl and add olive oil and stir in- check temperature.
Measure out honey in ramekin, maybe adding some oil (or aloe if you didn’t freeze it all) to mix in and refrigerate if desired (this will thicken the honey so if not diluted may make it difficult to add, but helpful especially in hotter months to keep soap temperature down and keep trace from accelerating too much).
Put on nitrile gloves and make sure all skin is covered.
Open windows around work area and sliding door (as long as it’s not too hot outside) and turn on ceiling fan. In hotter months arrange more fans around.
Arrange a large bowl with ice and maybe water (ice bath) on work table if the temperature outdoors is high. Either way arrange ice packs on table and place 3 qt bowl in the middle of them. Remove milk cubes and place in bowl.
Measure lye into separate container.
Slowly add in a small amount of lye into the bowl on the milk cubes and stir them well. Continue slowly and carefully adding and stirring until all milk is melted and keep stirring another 10-15 minutes to ensure lye is fully dissolved.
Plug in immersion blender and have ready nearby.
Check the temperature of the fats. It should be no higher than 100 degrees F, maybe around 90 degrees F but still clear and not cloudy. Place the 5 qt bowl of fat in the center of the ice packs/in the ice bath bowl and slowly pour the lye mixture into the oil, carefully not to splash. Stir with spatula at least 30 seconds then switch to immersion blender and carefully pulse the blender submersed in the liquids, slowly moving it around the bowl with each pulse, also stirring it with the blender occasionally. Stop as soon as it reaches light trace. This should not take too long so watch carefully.
Add honey/aloe and stir in with spatula then give it a few pulses to ensure emulsion, but take care not to let thicken beyond medium trace.
Take molds out of freezer. Carefully remove as much soap from immersion blender and carefully pour into one mold at a time, moving the bowl side to side over the mold, filling fully before moving on to the next mold. Use spatula to help move batter into the mold and to settle then smooth out top or create some other design on top.
Gently tap molds down on table to help soap settle to avoid air bubbles.
Repeat with second mold.
Cover with tops and place in freezer up to 24 hours.
Take out molds and let sit at room temperature 48-72 hours more until soap is more firm/hard.
Carefully (wearing gloves if desired to avoid fingerprints) pull liner with soap out of the mold and gently pull at liner to help release soap and carefully take soap out- try not to press hard on the soap or to squeeze too hard as this may dent the soap. Also be careful not to scratch or pick the soap with your nails! Be patient as this may take a while to gently coax the soap out- use gravity to help.
Place soap on wax paper once removed. Let sit out on its top side down another 24-48 hours before cutting to allow the other sides to air out and harden a bit more.
Place soap loaf on wax paper on cutting guide ensuring it is even then use wavy cutter to cut into bars, making sure each bar is relatively even width and each cut is as straight as possible. Even out the sides and any extra soap bits or any soap ash with straight soap cutter to give a smoother appearance.
Arrange bars on wax paper on a side in a cool, dark, dry area with space in between each bar for airflow.
Weigh at least one bar and take note.
Each following day, rotate the side each bar is resting on and weigh the same bar as before and take note- the weight should drop over the curing period.
Cure 4-6 weeks. Once the weight stops dropping around this time, the curing should be finished and the bars should be hard and ready to use.
Keep stored in a cool, dark, dry area with some airflow still but the bars can be stored closer together than during curing.
During hot months before shipping, maybe freeze the bars one to three days before shipping.
Rate Recipe
Comments
Comment count:
Soap Properties
Highlighted gray ranges represent recommended ranges for each property.
100
80
60
40
20
0
INS: 156.03 (ideal)
iodine: 43.53 (ideal)
Calculated Values for Oils and Preferences
| Superfat % | 5% |
| Saturated | 896.43 Gram(s) |
| Mono-Unsaturated | 608.44 Gram(s) |
| Poly-Unsaturated | 72.24 Gram(s) |
| Saturated:Unsaturated Ratio | 43.16:56.84 |
| Lye concentration | 100% |
| Weight Unit | Gram(s) |
| Soap type | solid |
Fatty Acid Profile
| Oleic | 37.15% |
| Linoleic | 3.26% |
| Linolenic | 1.16% |
| Ricinoleic | 0% |
| Lauric | 6.54% |
| Myristic | 5.92% |
| Palmitic | 24.05% |
| Stearic | 18.22% |
Recommended Additive Amounts
Swipe on table to see all values
For Advanced Soapmakers
| Sodium Lactate (60%)
|
| ||||||
| Recommended Essential/Fragrance Oil | 71.66 Gram(s) | ||||||
| Ascorbic Acid
| 16.38 Gram(s) | ||||||
| Extra Lye to Neutralize Ascorbic Acid for A.A. | NaOH: 3.31 Gram(s) | ||||||
| Lactic Acid
| 12.28 Gram(s) | ||||||
| Extra Lye to Neutralize Lactic Acid for L.A. | NaOH: 7.27 Gram(s) | ||||||
| Tetrasodium EDTA
| 12.10 Gram(s) | ||||||
| Sodium Citrate
| 21.29 - 63.88 Gram(s) | ||||||
| Potassium Citrate
| 26.21 - 78.62 Gram(s) | ||||||
| Rosemary Oleoresin (ROE)
| 6.55 - 8.19 Gram(s) | ||||||
|
Citric Acid Powder (anhydrous) |
| ||||||
|
Extra Lye to Neutralize Citric Acid Powder for C.A. |
|